Paper Nerd

Welcome back printmaking nerds! How is this summer heat treating ya? I escaped to the lake this weekend and got sun kissed like a crunchy state fair churro. Anyone relate?

In this week's issue:

• Not all paper is made the same

• We talk to Alex Escalera

• Question Time!

Let's dive in…

Sketch of the Week

Not All Paper is Made the Same

Ah yes, paper. Technically speaking, the surface on to which you print is called the “substrate.” Paper is the most common substrate in printmaking. When I started printmaking, I had no clue about the complexities of paper. Paper was paper. Previously, I had only been exposed to ruled, printer, sketching and drawing paper. That was it.

I was so confused the first time I went to buy printmaking paper. Was I supposed to buy the thickest one? The most affordable or the the one I most liked? If you have ever or still find yourself in this paper conundrum, then this issue is for you.

Fibers

Let’s start with the basics; paper is made of natural materials. Typically, it consists of wood pulp or fibrous plants. I am fortunate that the folks of Mulberry Paper and More sent me some of their paper to test out last week which were made with Amate, Nettle, Mulberry trees and the Sansevieria plant. Often times, the fibers from these trees/plants allow for each sheet to have a unique feel that is full of unique challenges. Generally, most commercial printmaking paper comes from a blend of wood fiber and/or cotton.

Texture

Depending on the fiber of your paper, you will see different texture on paper. Paper with more texture is difficult to print by hand since the raised texture creates an uneven surface for the ink to transfer. In cases like this, the result can leave you with salty or spotty prints. The longer the fibers of the natural material are, the stronger and more noticeable the texture will be.

GSM

The thickness of paper is measured by grams per square meter (GSM). The larger the number means the thicker and denser the paper will be. I work with 150-300 GSM paper. The thinner the paper, the easier it is for one to print by hand.

Archival, Acid Free, pH Buffered

In my opinion, these are often the most important things to look at when choosing a type of paper. Have you ever gone to the library and found an old book with yellowed pages? Maybe you found one that was breaking down to its delicacy? This is because of the acid present on it.

When I make a print, I think of all the possible locations where a customer might hang it. I never know where it will end up. I always make sure that the paper I use is Archival, Acid Free and ph Buffered. This prevents the paper from getting a nasty yellow and guarantees. As long as it taken care of, a print will survive a lifetime.

Most paper that is marketed as archival is already acid free and has a neutral or high ph. Occasionally, some paper is buffered with substances such as chalk to make them more resilient to aging and to the acidity in the environment. The one downside to these types of paper is that they are often more expensive.

Not All White is the Same

Every manufacturer has a different description of what “white” means to them. These differences are often dictated by the fibers they are made of, any additives, or other archival qualities. It is a good idea to test a few brands to see which one has the paper you enjoy the most!

Handmade v. Mould Made v. Machine

Handmade paper tends to have the widest selection of colors, textures, and fibers. It also has rougher and uneven textures with varying gsm’s. In the past, I've made my own paper from old football practice cotton shirts! It sure was a lot of fun and it was a nice way to keep old clothes from a landfill.

Trailing behind handmade paper is mould paper which tends to have a uniform consistency and gsm. It also has deckled edges which gives off a handmade look. Don't be fooled! The majority of specialty printmaking paper such as Kozo and Rives are made this way.

Machine paper can be created by Cold or Hot press. Cold press paper tends to have a more textured feel, where Hot press paper have very smooth surfaces. Machine made paper does not typically have decked edges and is already pre-cut to specified sizes.

Experiment!

I enjoy learning about and working with a variety of paper. I am often told by my collectors that the “feel” of paper was often what moved them to buy a piece. Thicker sheets of paper tend to give the perception of being high quality with a luxurious feel. While thinner, that perhaps is just as equally as strong, can come off as cheap.

I encourage you to experiment and try something new. Check out some of the offerings of Mulberry Paper and More* If you decide to give their paper a try, use code: danielvillaart10 for 10% off in your next purchase.

*Mulberry Paper and More links or code are not an affiliate, however, be sure to use it before they expire on August 13, 2022.

If you want to see a more detailed review of Mulberry Paper and More paper, check this video out!

Artist Highlight: Alex Escalera

We talk to Alex Escalera, a copy writer by day and printmaker by night. He shares his struggles as a pandemic printmaker and his epic green outdoor studio!

Location: Sanger, CA

Printmaking Since: 2020

Daniel: You have a different approach to printmaking, you come from the advertising world. You are a copywriter, how did you get started in printmaking?

Alex: So, like a lot of people during the pandemic it was just a hobby that I picked up. Funny enough, I saw one of my friends who also works in advertising, and she is an art director she got into linocut and it was one of those oddly satisfying things. I knew I would love to do that too, so I bought myself a whole bunch of stuff at the beginning. Not knowing where to start, I had all these materials and just picked it up!

Daniel: We both started with the pandemic, what do you feel has been one of the greatest challenges you have experienced with linocut and printmaking?

Alex: At first it was just the carving of details. Not digging in too much, and having the blade slip off and breaking something off and ruining the block! There was a lot of that. I bought a bunch of supplies, because I told myself I need this type of cutter, and this type of tool I should have just started with one and just practice! I treat everything the same way. I go all in.

Daniel: One of the cool things that you are doing, which I have not seen a whole lot of people do is having an outside studio. How did that idea come about?

Alex: You know, being in the California Central Valley, it gets hot during the day but at night it get cool. So, I realized that I do a lot of my printing at night anyways, and it is always way cooler and breezing at night. Now I work outside! It’s a nice way to give myself some me time. I might get myself a little cart so that I can roll things away to the garage.

Read the full interview here.

Follow Alex on Instagram!

Question Time!

Do you have a printmaking or artist-related question you want me to answer? Let me know here!

Thank you so much for saying that Drew!

I am a big time nerd. I read a lot. The easiest way for me to learn is to do so by reading. I have a lot of art books. I am actually thinking of creating a YouTube video detailing my favorite and most helpful books soon! Stay tuned for that!

I started studying art with courses at the Sadie Valerie Atelier. The courses where online and self-paced. I have also taken Domestika courses, as well as many tutorials.

Outside of high school, I have no formal art education. Most of what I know has been learned via books, YouTube, and a lot of practice! About 80% of what I produce, drawing and sketches never make it to the public eye. Yet, these failed attempts are crucial in the learning process. If you are planning on studying art, I recommend to start with drawing. I believe it is fundamental to know the basics of drawing first before venturing out into other art forms. One needs to know the rules before breaking them!

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Thanks for reading. See ya next week.